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Your Pyrex isn’t the glass it used to be. But why?

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Look at these two dishes. Same name, same shape. One was bought in Europe and one in America. Take both out of a hot oven and set them on a wet counter, and one will probably be fine. The other can shatter. The story starts on the railroad. In the late 1800s, trains were signaled at night with lanterns: a flame inside a glass globe, out in the weather. Glass grows when it heats up and shrinks when it cools, so when cold rain hit a hot globe, the outside shrank while the inside was still swollen, and the glass pulled itself apart. A signal that goes dark at night is a dangerous thing, so the railroads went to Corning, a glassmaker in upstate New York. Around 1908, Corning chemist Eugene Sullivan found the fix: boron. Borosilicate glass expands only about a third as much as ordinary glass when it heats up. Corning called it Nonex, short for non-expanding, and put it in lantern globes and battery jars. Then Corning physicist Jesse Littleton heard that his wife Bessie’s casserole dish had cracked in the oven. He brought her the bottom of a sawed-off battery jar, Bessie baked a sponge cake in it, and it worked. In 1915, Corning brought the glass to the kitchen as Pyrex, twelve dishes starting with a pie plate. Baking in glass sounded so strange that the ads had to spell it out: “Yes, you can cook in it!” During World War Two, the military needed dishes for its mess halls, and mess hall dishes have a different problem: they get dropped. Around 1942, Corning made tough white dishes from ordinary soda-lime glass, the kind in your windows, and tempered it. Tempering heats the glass and then cools the surface fast with air, so the outside locks tight around the inside. That makes it much harder to break with a drop, but it doesn’t change how much the glass expands. Soda-lime still grows about three times as much as borosilicate. After the war, Corning started using tempered soda-lime in some Pyrex bakeware too. In 1998 it sold its kitchenware business, and American Pyrex is still made from tempered soda-lime today. In Europe, the Pyrex name went to a different company, which still makes it from borosilicate. In 2010, Consumer Reports heated dishes to 450 degrees and set them on a wet countertop, something the packaging warns against. The American soda-lime dishes broke ten times out of ten. The European borosilicate dishes didn’t break once at that heat. You can check yours without breaking it. Dip it in vegetable oil. Borosilicate bends light almost exactly as much as the oil does, so the part under the oil nearly vanishes and you can barely see its edges. Soda-lime stays clearly visible. If you can still see it clearly, you’ve got the tempered kind: tougher when you drop it, but more likely to crack from a sudden change in temperature.

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