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Explore Get the Most Out of Your Torque Wrench with This Accuracy Multi-Point Technique with 2,414 views, 80 likes, and 5 comments. Experience the impact of this video content that has captured audience attention.

00:00 Introduction to accuracy calibration method 00:38 DIY hanging weight Method 01:03 Recording Results 06:28 Graphing Results 07:45 How to Use Graph to set torque wrench This video shows the best DIY method to calibrate a torque wrench, without a hex key adjustment, focusing on its accuracy through it's range. We demonstrate the process of taking data, converting inch-pounds to Newton-meters, and plotting the measurement on a graph. These tech tips help assess the precision of your torque wrench. Be sure to review the first 8 minutes of our video on torque wrench calibration. a. After you've assembled the necessary items outlined at the beginning of the video, wrap some tape around the middle of the torque wrench handle but do not mark the handle. b. Set the torque wrench to somewhere around the midpoint of the range (a whole number is fine) and record. c. Install the square head of the torque wrench in the vise firmly in place to prevent it from falling out but not gorilla force which would deform the square head itself. Place the weights on the handle and release slowly. If it click as you release, pickup the cord (do not slide) and move the weights in toward the square drive a bit at a time, until there's No click when lowering. d. If the wrench does not click, pick up the weights move the weights (do not slide) out toward end of handle until it just clicks. e. When your comfortable that when you just fully release the weights, you get a click, MARK this point on the tape. Remove measure from the center of the square drive and RECORD this measurement (as a decimal - use your phone if necessary to convert to decimal). f. The calculations are: From the middle of the handle was 7.6 inches, the weight was 13.1 lbs and our conversion to Nm was 0.113 telling us to set the torque wrench to 11.2 Nm We'll set our torque wrench to 11.2, install in our vise, and add the weight slowly at the 7.6 mark and see if it clicks. If it clicks, pick up the weights and move slightly inward toward the square drive and set it down. When we reach a point where it doesn't click (picking up the weights each time and gently set it down), move it in just a tad (till it clicks). Measure from this point to the center of the square drive. Note: if initially the torque wrench doesn't click, move the weights outward away from the square drive till it clicks and measure the distance to the square drive. Most mechanics will agree that the best accuracy for torque wrench is 20 to 100% of the torque wrench readings. In this case, below the 20% reading we use a T-handle Cam Over low range torque wrench. Repeat with different weight to cover a range from 20-100% of the torque wrench. Record and tabulate your findings. g. Plot on graph paper (or if you're knowledgeable you can use an excel spread sheet). Here we've checked 4 different weights giving us the settings on the torque wrench and what we calculated as the actual force or torque applied to the bolt. We've also calculated the variance at these settings. Now, for instance, if we want an actual torque of 8 Nm, we'd set the wrench at 8.8. If we wanted a torque of 15, we'd set the torque wrench to 15.5 Nm. Here the differences are small. Note: The torque setting written on the component or in the specifications are a maximum and one should consider setting the torque 10% below the maximum written and testing by pushing on the handlebars or down on the saddle to ensure tightness. Here, because all the reading are slightly lower, the curves pretty good and we may not have to worry about using the calibration curve. In this other example, however, the trend line is curved (polynomial) and using the calibration curve is critical. To achieve a torque of 18, we must set the wrench to 21 Nm. In fact, some of you may want to send the wrench out for calibration or replace the torque wrench.

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