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Explore All flannel is the same right? Then how can one shirt cost $12 and another $350...? with 643,140 views, 28,120 likes, and 345 comments. Experience the impact of this video content that has captured audience attention.

A $12 flannel shirt from Walmart and a $350 flannel from Iron Heart carry the same word on the label. Flannel isn't a fiber. It's a finish. Cotton, wool, even polyester becomes flannel once its surface has been raised. The raising is called napping. Cloth runs over a drum of rollers covered in thousands of tiny wire hooks. The hooks catch the fibers inside each yarn and drag their loose ends to the surface. That fuzz is the nap, and it traps a layer of still air against the body. It is why flannel feels warm. Before metal hooks, mills used a plant. The dried head of the fuller's teasel is covered in tiny hooked bracts. Mills packed thousands of them onto spinning drums called gig mills and ran damp wool across them. The plant is named after what it does. It teases. The original flannel was wool, a loosely woven cloth from Wales. Wool has a trick cotton doesn't: beaten long enough, its scaly fibers lock together. Mills called it milling. Wooden hammers pounded the loose weave into something dense and warm, and teasels raised its soft face. In 1861, Pryce Pryce-Jones, a draper in the Welsh town of Newtown, began selling that flannel by mail. His catalogue is credited as the first mail-order catalogue in the world. His customers included Florence Nightingale and Queen Victoria. Today the word stretches much further. One bedding company trademarked "Micro Flannel" for sheets made of 100% polyester. Technically, it is flannel. So flip it over. If a plaid is just as sharp on the inside, it's yarn-dyed, woven from threads colored before weaving. If the back looks like a faded photocopy, the pattern was printed on top. Check the weight: most everyday flannel shirts land between 5 and 8 ounces per square yard. The Iron Heart is 12. Then read the fiber tag. The word on the label is the same. What was done to the cloth is not.

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