Based on this YouTube video's total view count of 184K views and industry-standard rates, the estimated total earning is $129 - $368 through ad revenue. Historical data is not yet available to calculate daily, weekly, or monthly averages.

Explore Ball Joint Removal, No Hammer🪛 with 184,027 views, 234 likes, and 7 comments. Experience the impact of this video content that has captured audience attention.

A ball joint stud is not bolted into the arm. It is wedged into it: a shallow taper, only a few degrees off straight, pressed into a matching taper and held by friction alone. Which means the nut on top is not holding the joint on. It is the thing that pressed the taper in — and that is why taking it off changes nothing. Once you see that, the removal stops looking like a trick. The exposed thread gets loaded with a nut standing on a flat bar laid across the casting, so the nut has something solid to push against instead of the joint. Turn the nut and it draws the stud up, out of the taper, in fine increments, while you watch the gap open. ※ Key Features & Innovation Highlights: ▪ ※ **The taper holds it, not the thread.** The joint is located by two matching cones in contact. A taper that shallow is self-locking: friction is stronger than the wedging action that would push it back out, which is exactly why the joint survives years of load with the nut doing nothing but preload. The price of that property is that it does not release when you want it to. Add water, road salt and the micro-motion of two faces clamped hard together, and the contact surfaces fretting-corrode into something closer to one piece than two. A pry bar has nothing to work with either: it loads the joint sideways, from a direction no puller can reach, and the taper ignores it. ▪ ※ **The nut is a screw jack, and it always was.** A thread is an inclined plane wrapped around a cylinder, so a nut turning against a fixed surface turns hand torque into a large straight-line pull — and this one is already coaxial with the stud, which is the only direction that separates a taper. Because a thread of this pitch is also self-locking, nothing springs back when you stop; the joint creeps out a fraction at a time and stays where you left it. The reaction load goes straight into the casting rather than sideways through the arm, which is why nothing bends. The same idea is ordinary elsewhere: self-extracting crank bolts use a crank's own thread to pull it off its taper. ▪ ※ **The weak link moves to the thread and the casting.** Once the nut is the puller, the parts most likely to fail are the ones taking the load. A corroded or burred stud thread will strip before the taper lets go, so brush it, oil it, and run a die over it if it needs one; a nyloc that has already been used once has less to give. The stud also has to be held still — a hex, a Torx or flats at the end of it — or the nut only polishes the thread while nothing moves. And the spacer has to press on something able to take it: a thin washer dishes, and cast aluminium under a small contact patch will crush or crack. ▪ ※ **What the hammer would have cost.** The usual shortcut is a wedge driven into the gap, or a sharp blow on the side of the arm. Both work by shock and side load. A wedge spreads the joint open, which is exactly what tears the boot and puts a bending load into an arm designed for push and pull, not for prying. A hammer delivers its energy through the housing into the socket, where it brinells the race and can dent the shell. This method does neither: the joint leaves along its own axis and the part often goes back into service. Its limits are honest — it needs exposed thread and clearance above the stud, and it will not help if the stud is staked or the thread is already ruined. ▪ ※ **The real lesson is to look for a thread that is already there.** This reads as reverse thinking because the part was being treated as a fastener when it is a mechanism. Almost every press fit has one: a bolt that pulls a bearing off a shaft, an extractor that threads into a broken stud, a self-extracting crank bolt. The move is always the same — find the thread already coaxial with the part you want to move, give it something immovable to push against, and let the screw do the pulling. It is slower than a hammer, and it is the reason the surrounding parts are still straight afterwards. Practical Notes: - Support the car on stands and unload the arm first; a taper that is side-loaded will bind no matter what you turn. - Wire-brush and oil the exposed thread, and chase it with a die if it is burred. These jobs usually fail on the thread, not the joint. - Use a thick flat plate or bar with full contact on the casting. A thin washer dishes and takes the aluminium with it. - Hold the stud from turning by its hex or Torx, then work the nut in small increments. - Watch the gap, not the wrench. If the torque jumps suddenly, stop, back off and clean the thread. - Never heat a cast aluminium arm to break the grip, and do not hammer the housing to shock it loose. - Fit a new nut and inspect the boot. A split boot means the joint is already on borrowed time. Suspension work involves stored spring energy: support the vehicle on stands before starting, and have a qualified technician inspect any joint you have removed.

With SocialCounts.org’s view counter, track your YouTube video’s live view count and YouTube likes count in real time with fast, reliable updates.

Watch every YouTube video live view count rise with our real-time YouTube views tracker—built for accuracy and minimal delay.

Follow YouTube real time views as they happen, using our dedicated view counter for YouTube videos.

Get up-to-date live view count on YouTube and see real-time growth with SocialCounts.org’s smart tracking tools.