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One country, two islands, two entirely different propositions. Tobago is the one you packed the flip-flops for. Trinidad is not about that at all. Anthony Bourdain arrives in Port of Spain two months before Carnival and finds the season already under way, which obliges him to admit that two of his deepest fears are dancing and singing in public. He gets a lesson anyway: liming, which is the local word for hanging around with friends and a drink, and wining, which is technically the circumduction of the hips and which, he is firmly told, does not mean what a visitor thinks it means. During Carnival everybody wines with everybody, and for a few weeks the island’s considerable barriers of class and colour come down. Almost everything good here started as something that was banned. The British outlawed skin drums after a series of riots they blamed on African drumming; decades later the US Navy left a pile of oil barrels behind, and Trinidad invented an entire orchestra out of them. Tony sits in a panyard with Phase II, one of eleven big bands preparing for Panorama — first prize a hundred and fifty thousand dollars — while Lennox “Boogsie” Sharpe layers engine room, bass pans, guitar and cello pans and front line into a wall of sound, and historian Kim Johnson explains that the steelbands were once street gangs as much as orchestras, and that music is the reason Africans survived slavery not just physically but psychically. The other banned thing is kalinda, stick fighting, five or six hundred years old, driven underground and disguised as dance like capoeira, still technically illegal, still fought until somebody bleeds. One old fighter has seen a man lose an eye and has seen a man die. Then there is who lives here. After slavery ended in 1834, Britain needed bodies for the cane fields and brought a hundred and fifty thousand indentured labourers from India — slavery under another name, with a promise of freedom after five years that often turned out to be worthless; the ones who took the return passage found their families gone or unwilling to take them back. Tony eats curried duck and buss up shut with a family who have been here since 1845 and who describe themselves, without hesitation, as Trinidadian first and Indian second. Up the hill in Westmoorings he eats raw kibbeh and muhammara with a Syrian-Lebanese family whose ancestors fled Ottoman persecution, boarded a ship in Beirut assuming that anything sailing west was America, and ended up here instead. And everywhere he goes somebody asks whether he has had doubles yet. As one host puts it: this is a small island, and if you don’t learn to live together you have to live in the sea. It is not a postcard. A country of 1.3 million people had 460 murders the year before Tony arrived, giving Port of Spain a worse per capita rate than Detroit or Chicago, most of it tied to the narcotics moving through on their way north. An investigative reporter describes being flown out of the country under an assumed name after a twenty-thousand-dollar contract was taken on his life. In 1990 an armed group besieged parliament for six days and twenty-six people died, and almost nothing changed afterwards. Muhammad Muwakil, whose father was part of that siege and who now fronts the band Freetown Collective, offers the sharpest reading of the week: it is not poverty that breeds crime, it is exclusion — and Carnival, he suspects, works beautifully as a sedative. Thirty miles east, on Tobago, Calypso Rose cooks crab and dumplings and talks about being the first woman ever to win the Calypso King title, in a form her preacher father told her belonged to the devil. No island in the sun is paradise, Tony concludes. But Trinidad has done better than most, and in its own proud and unmistakable style. Subscribe here to discover all of Anthony Bourdain's adventures and watch full episodes: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCffagYQTThJx4N55UKdr5ew?Sub_confirmation=1 Travel the globe with the legendary chef, author, and storyteller Anthony Bourdain as he uncovers the soul of a destination through its food, culture, and politics. Far more than just a cooking show, Parts Unknown dives deep into the corners of the world rarely seen on TV—eating with locals, exploring diverse culinary rituals, and asking the hard questions. #AnthonyBourdain #PartsUnknown #TravelDocumentary #culture #cuisine

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