

Stronger than cotton, tougher when wet, woven for six thousand years. So why did we stop wearing it?
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Stronger than cotton, tougher when wet, woven for six thousand years. So why did we stop wearing it? Analytics Table
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Ramie is stronger than cotton, gets stronger when wet, and softens the more you wash it. People have been weaving it for at least 6,000 years. Yet you’ve probably never knowingly worn it. Or, if you have, it may have been hiding on the label of a 1980s sweater. The fiber comes from the inner bark of a plant in the nettle family. But getting it out is difficult. The stalk is packed with gums and resins that hold the fibers together. Unlike flax, which can be left in a field to loosen through controlled decay, ramie needs scraping, pounding, and boiling before it becomes something you can wear. In parts of East Asia, that difficulty became the foundation of extraordinary craftsmanship. In Hansan, South Korea, women split the bark into fine threads with their teeth to make mosi, a cloth light enough for the worst summer heat. In Japan’s snow country, weavers making Echigo-jofu split ramie with their fingernails and join the strands end to end. They weave through winter because the thread needs damp air. Too dry, and it snaps on the loom. Cotton offered a different path. Its fibers grow as fluff around a seed, and the cotton gin made separating them fast and cheap. Industrial spinning machines were built around cotton, while ramie’s stiffness and brittleness made it difficult to process. Cotton became cheaper with each improvement, and ramie fell further behind. Then, in the 1980s, ramie found an unexpected way back into American clothing. Import quotas restricted cotton, wool, and synthetics, but ramie fell outside those categories. A sweater made from more than half ramie could avoid the cotton quota, even with cotton blended into it. American imports of ramie-blend sweaters jumped from about 21 million in 1984 to 93 million in 1985. Nearly one in ten sweaters sold in the country that year contained ramie. In 1986, the government closed the gap and placed ramie under quota too.
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